This time tomorrow I’ll be sangin’ the words of my fellow native North Carolinian, the great Ben Folds, “come pick me up, I’ve landed.”

Ghana, my dear home-for-four-months, we will surely meet again.

In joy.

Well, folks, the time is winding down!  I head home in just six days, which is hard to believe.  Through the semester I just figured that home would continue to be a loooooong way away.  But it’s right upon me now.  The only things standing in the way of me and home are 2 exams, a paper, and a hop, skip, and jump(x2) across a desert, sea, Europe, and the Atlantic.

Thursday we had a “farewell dinner.”  All of us in the program gathered at a local restaurant (actually the restaurant where we shared our first meal…how special!).  It was a really good time for us to just hang out as a large group, probably for the last time.  We had some delicious Ghanaian foods, including our beloved FanIce (this is ice cream that comes in a little sachet and tastes like Coldstone cake batter mixed with Coolwhip, so it’s fluffy and delightful!).  I might attempt to stow some of this in my suitcase…

Some of us compared the farewell dinner to times when you say goodbye to someone on the street and then you realize that you’re both walking in the same direction before actually parting ways and it’s just a little bit awkward.  I’m thankful to be walking in the same direction for a bit, making it a slow goodbye to a place I’ve made a home and to people I’ve come to love.

Back to studying for my Twi exam in the morning…

And Happy Election Day! (you can read a bit about the elections by clicking on the picture)

As the Thanksgiving holiday isn’t celebrated here in Ghana, we had to go about our normal daily activities – for me that was class in the morning and my first final in the afternoon.  I spent nine hours on the University of Ghana campus before returning home for an unbelievable Thanksgiving celebration put on by my program.  Long tables were set up with several huge turkeys, all the way from the US.  We were also treated to stuffing, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, macaroni and cheese, candied yams, and some Ghanaian dishes – vegetable stew, kelewele, and jollof rice.  The only thing missing was my family!  We all enjoyed one another’s company, all of us craving home just a bit, but satisfied (both with food, and knowing that home is just 2 weeks away!)

Saturday we took a 4 hour bus ride to Wli Falls, located in the Volta Region and speculated as the tallest waterfall in West Africa.  We hiked 45 minutes to the actual waterfall and almost immediately waded into the surrounding pool, making our way to the base of the falls.  Standing directly beneath a waterfall was one of the most unbelievable experiences I’ve ever had.  I don’t think I had ever subjected myself to such power.  It was intensely thrilling, a real experience of the Lord’s greatness.

I’ve realized here that back at home, changes in weather have so much to do with the winding down of a semester.  Here in Ghana it is perpetually hot, and signs of the impending holidays are minimal.  A turkey vulture flew by my head as I was studying for my exam outside at Legon…I guess maybe that counted for something leading up to Thanksgiving.  Because of this, finals have sort of crept up on me…and they’ll continue down to the bitter end of my stay here.  These next two weeks will be packed with work and slipping in my last Ghana to-dos.

Much love to everyone, and Happy Thanksgiving today and every day.

A couple more updates:  Two weeks ago I began working at Scripture Union – Ghana, an international ministry that seeks to promote the reading of God’s Word in developing a personal relationship with Him.  They do this primarily through offering Bible Studies and camps for youth as well as daily guide books for personal Bible Study.  I’ve been doing a lot of spreadsheet data entry, but it’s been a really awesome place of fellowship and encouragement.  We begin each day with praise through singing and prayer and a devotion – they’ve even asked me to lead once already.  The slogan at the office is “SU is Us”…and I’m so thankful and excited to be a part of that Us for the rest of the semester.

Also, I have my first final exam next week.  At 3:30 on Thanksgiving Day.

And also, there is a small church next door to our house here.  Last night “The First Noel” floated through the air as the choir practiced.  Christmas is coming…

• In Twi class last week we learned body parts and sentence construction. My professor randomly called on me to say aloud “I like to eat chicken breast”. While I’m not sure what exactly ended up coming out of my mouth, I know it was near the equivalent of “I like chicken boobs.”
• I went to Kaneshie market last week with two friends. It’s a good 30 minutes away from our house with traffic. We were on a mission for fabric and locally-made shea butter. (Note: Ghanaians have no idea what “budder” is…you must ask for “buttAH”…as in shea buttah). As soon as we completed our shopping, it started pouring rain with no sign of letting up. By the time we made it to the exit of the market, the streets were flooded up past our ankles. And when I say flood I mean gutter excess. And when I say gutter excess I mean a nice collection of liquid forms of who knows what. We waded through this to find a cab. Darkness fell. We were drenched. And all cabs refused to go anywhere near Labone (where we live) because of the road conditions. Finally we found a driver who didn’t know how to get to Labone. Agreeing to direct him, we hopped in the car (all the while I’m thinking… ‘wait, I know this place well enough to direct natives?’). We made it home in time for a necessary shower before dinner.
• Saturday my friend Amanda and I went out to explore Madina.  Madina is a section of Accra about 40 minutes away…basically Accra is a sprawling city with several neighborhoods…I live in Labone/Cantonments, go to the university in Legon, work at Scripture Union in Ridge, etc.  That really doesn’t have much to do with this story.  So anyway, on the way home our cab driver got confused as he neared our neighborhood.  He realized that he didn’t know where he was going right as he was passing the US Embassy, which is a monstrosity of a building monitored by lots of cameras and lots of police. Realizing this, the driver decided to make a u-turn in the middle of the road in front of the Embassy/police.  The police ended up freaking out, yelling lots of things and signaling for the driver to pull over. The cab driver just yelled back without stopping the car until a policeman ended up cocking his rifle.  And then the driver sped away faster.  Amanda and I clung to each other, at a loss for words and thoughts, expecting to hear shots or something.  The driver tried to turn to us to tell us that everything was ok.  We were just like “?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!”… We soon made it home safe…adrenaline pumping. Whew.
• Saturday night some of my friends and I decided to go out. We began the night at Champs, which is basically the United States squeezed into a tiny bar. I saw a guy with a mullet. We left soon to head to “Accra’s #1 club,” Aphrodisiac. First off, the bouncer almost refused to let three of us in, including me, because we were wearing flip flops, affectionately called “kyale wotees” here in Ghana. “Kyale wotee,” pronounced like “chahlee wotay” literally means “Charlie, let’s go” in the Ga language. We learned that kyale wotees are not the choice shoes of those who grace Accra’s #1 club with their presence. After eventually convincing the guy to let us in, we found the club to be completely empty, and the DJ playing “Like a Prayer” and “Get Down On It” with ten-second interludes of “Miami” over and over and over and over. And then we left.
• I bought 007 Quantum of Solace on the side of the road on Sunday. I tried to bear with the horrible quality of the bootleg, but my two friends and I who watched the movie finished it having no idea what had happened.

]]> http://evainghana.wordpress.com/2008/11/19/ghana-isms/feed/ 0 evainghana http://evainghana.wordpress.com/2008/11/19/hot-tamale/ http://evainghana.wordpress.com/2008/11/19/hot-tamale/#comments Wed, 19 Nov 2008 18:33:43 +0000 evainghana http://evainghana.wordpress.com/?p=94 ]]> November 6-9 my program took a four-day trip to the Northern Regions of Ghana, including the city of Tamale (pronounced like the food but accent the ta instead of the ma).  Two of the days we spent traveling – it takes 12 hours to drive up to that part of the country.  I’ve heard the size of Ghana compared to Indiana and Illinois combined, in case you were wondering.

As you head north, the climate becomes much more hot and dry…perhaps because you begin to get closer to the Sahara?  That’s my reasoning at least.  The landscape begins to look much more African savannah-like, complete with baobab trees.  This is the type of tree that Rafiki lives in in The Lion King.

As a group we visited a clinic in a village in Tamale opened by a Ghanaian doctor to provide free services to anyone who may come as well as a place to stay for those recovering from surgery or suffering from leprosy, mental disorders, HIV/AIDS, and other various illnesses.  This man was so full of grace.

One of the days we took a three-hour trip to the town of Bolgatanga.  There we met with a community of widows and their children.  Upon arrival we learned about the plight of widows here in Ghana – something that was news to me.   It is a common traditional belief that the wife is to blame for the death of a husband, and the cause of death is always attributed to witchcraft.  Because of this, widows become indebted to the husband’s family and are often physically abused and humiliated before their communities.  Widows and Orphans Movement is an NGO, founded by a widow in northern Ghana to provide funds and refuge for these women an their children.  The village we visited had been set up by this organization as a place for these and learn specialized trades such as basketweaving.  While with the widows we got to try our hand at weaving and play with their kids (my favorite part).  I led several in “making it rain” with claps and snaps and rubbing out hands together, but I think they were most interested in getting and giving high-fives.  We had stinging palms all-around.  We finished off our visit with a traditional dance with the women and children – it was really a joyful time in their community.  I really love this picture…partly because my wonderful friend Molly made it into the photo…she’s the one behind me with a basket on her head.

Other trip highlights: I tried guinea fowl, which tasted like a leaner, heartier chicken.  We visited Pikroro Slave Camp, a stopping point on slaves’ journey to the coast.

This trip was the last of overnight excursions with the program.  From here on out, all will most likely be spent in Accra, perhaps buckling down on the work that needs to be done over the next three weeks…

First stop was our hostel.  Despite our reservation request, they were booked.  …?  So we walked to find another one, Auberge Rovitta, which was straight out of a horror film.

One of Lomé’s main tourist attractions is the voodoo fetish market.  I recommend looking at my pictures of the market, but if you can’t, imagine rows of several tables filled with dead things – heads of hyenas, antelopes, ducks and monkeys, skins of ferrets and dogs, bones of everything, dried chameleons and snakes…it was unbelievable.  Needless to say I didn’t pick up any of these.  Sorry Em, no elephant skin for Christmas.

Two Togo Favorites:

1. The main mode of transportation is by motorbike, including taxis (or taximotos).  We took them three times over the weekend, and it was one of the most thrilling experiences of my life.  I will admit, my first ride I clung to the driver, convinced I had just made the absolute worst impulsive decision of my life, and eyeing every pothole in the street…thinking the worst.  After the first ride, I loosened up, and really took Togo by motorbike.  The streets are really beautiful – lined with trees (and sidewalks…a change!).  The last moto we took was to the border, which included a drive down the Lomé coast.  [Think City of Angels...Meg Ryan on the bike]. Ok not really…I still held on…but it was an amazing and memorable ride.

2. Being a Francophone country, Togo has a lot of French/Euro flair, including their food.  My food intake for the weekend: two chocolate croissants and a baguette…and some cheap Chinese food, but that doesn’t count.  The baked goods were phenomenal.

Our trip ended with us coming to the realization that our bus service didn’t run on Sunday.  Oops.  We ended up eventually finding a tro-tro to take us home to Accra.  Au Revoir, Togo.

I traveled to London for Fall Break (October 18-26). I will admit to being overwhelmed by the striking difference between Ghana and London – within the first hour of arriving, I was cutting through crisp Fall air in a clean Tube car, passing green hillsides and rows of antiquated apartment buildings, and finally emerging from the Tube station to find KFC, Starbucks, and Burger King all lined up in a nice little row. [Kweku, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Ghana anymore]

But, the most overwhelming point was certainly being surrounded by people who I love. Kendra met me at the Tube station in Kensington, and we immediately did what we do best – caught up over coffee and grocery shopped. I wish I could better describe the feeling that accompanied suddenly being with someone who just knows me. I’ll relate it to coming in from playing in the snow – you’ve had a blast out there but you’re ready to come inside, shed a few layers, and feel some comforting warmth.

Day one we also went to Borough Market, one of my favorite spots in the city. There you can sample and purchase breads, cheeses, jams, and (my favorite) DIY trail mix. For my Summer’s Best friends, I had a taste of GORP in Heaven…all the dried fruits, nuts, and chocolate-covered everythings you could ever imagine. Anyway, our lovely friend Ellen met up with us there – she’s studying in Cambridge. We walked along the Thames and eventually met up with friends and Wake graduates Andrew and Andy who are studying at the London School of Economics. It was so refreshing to be reunited with such great friends right from the start.

On Monday, Kendra and I took a train to Cambridge to visit Ellen. With Ellen as our tour guide, we braced rainy weather to see the town. One highlight (aside from spending a wonderful day in a wonderful place with two wonderful friends): Ellen pointed out the lamppost that supposedly inspired C.S. Lewis that of Narnian fame.

I spent a couple days meandering around the city on my own, exploring Notting Hill, picnicking in Hyde Park, getting my art fill at the National Gallery, National Portrait Gallery, and Tate Modern, watching the Buckingham Palace guards stand still for extended periods of time, and really walking around as much as possible to take in all I could.

By Thursday morning, Austin, Kelsey, and Susan had arrived from Salamanca. We had planned to meet at Parliament/Westminster Bridge to take a water taxi to Greenwich. Our reunion was glorious and the day was even more so. Greenwich Market serves the most amazing international food – I had the world’s best authentic Mexican burrito and horchata followed by a Grand Marnier crepe. In the market was also a shop filled with dresses made from Ghanaian fabrics – a crazy find. One of Greenwich’s main attractions is the Observatory, home of the Prime Meridian line. [Fun fact: the Prime Meridian also runs through Accra…I’ll be setting out to find its location soon]. We spent the rest of out time wandering through Greenwich Park, loving on each other all the way.  Here is me at the famous (yet arbitrary) line that demarcates the eastern and western hemispheres:

Over the next two days, friends continued to come into the city: Rebekah and Katie from Paris, Josh from Florence, Molly from Galway, Ireland, and I was reunited with other friends studying in London, Cori and Holly. It was unbelievable. “Is this really our life?” was a common question…especially after Kendra and I first greeted Molly – an all out sprint across Trafalgar Square into one another’s arms. It was quite Hollywood. Everything about the week was surreal and so real at the same time. Again, I know I’m not going to do the week justice with my description. It was just really wonderful, and I am so thankful for my friends. We finished out the weekend visiting St. Paul’s Cathedral (wait…how do you pronounce that?), the Tower of London, Wake’s Worrell House, the Trafalgar Square Lions, Buckingham Palace, and St. James Park.

The final night we were all in town we had our weekly-turned-semester-ly pasta night. We laughed, cried, and de-weaved my hair. This was an incredible process, and I am eternally grateful to all who lent a hand. And to Chris Martin who set the mood.

The next day most of us were back to our respective homes-for-the-semester. One great part about the week was that by staying with Kendra, I really got a feel for living in the city…doing things like going to the grocery store, eating at local restaurants, taking walks in the neighborhood, going to church, navigating the Tube. I loved London incredibly, and can’t wait to return.

Tomorrow evening, African Eva will hop over the Sahara and the sea with braids, handmade African clothes, and the common inclination to greet individuals on the street with a nearly-violent wave and “Good day, εtε sεn?”

A few things I’ve done in preparation for the trip:
- Last night some girls at the house and I watched Love Actually, the only movie I could find around here set in the UK.  It had the double effect of getting me excited about 1. hearing the lovely accent, and 2. Christmas.  While one is merely two days away and the other, two months, I have begun to celebrate both by using random phrases picked up from the movie and listening to Christmas music.  Brilliant!

– Received my sleeved clothes from Marjorie, the seamstress we all love so much. Hoodies and coats and scarves in African prints and batik are now stowed away in my suitcase.  And I may or may not have discovered how to make a Ghanaian pashmina…

- Googled Ghanaian restaurants in London.

- Listened to lots of the Beatles.

I will be meeting Kendra at the Tube station nearest to her house very early on Saturday morning, and we’ll be off to a delightful week -  most likely to begin with a refreshing time catching up with one another over a cup of coffee.  Several of my other friends from Wake are due to arrive late next week.  I can’t wait to be with so many people I love so dearly!

Yesterday marked the halfway point of my time abroad.  I celebrated with a little box of Mini Wheats Mom slipped into my suitcase.  And Dad, I may or may not have done the Frosted Mini Wheats dance while eating.  It’s a great joy knowing I have two more months of adventures here while being halfway home at the same time.  Now, off to continue those adventures in the UK!